China part 4: Sichuan and Yunnan Provinces, 30th August – 11th September

Chengdu After so long in the high altitude plains of Tibet, where eagles soared and the smell of yak butter wafted in the air, arriving at the bus station in the city of Chengdu and being immediately assailed by taxi drivers was a bit of a shock. We had to fight our way through aContinue reading “China part 4: Sichuan and Yunnan Provinces, 30th August – 11th September”

China part 3: Amdo Tibet: 21st-31st August

During our stay in Jiayaguan, we’d contacted a few travel agents about visiting the Tibetan Autonomous Region. We knew this would involve permits and joining an organised tour, as it is not permitted for foreigners to visit this region otherwise. Unfortunately, this proved to be too expensive and time-consuming for us to arrange, so weContinue reading “China part 3: Amdo Tibet: 21st-31st August”

China Part 2: Zhangye & Jiayaguan: 14th – 21st August

Zhangye Our train from the South to the North of China was due to take about 40 hours and cover two full nights. The first night we were just so happy to be out of Liuzhou railway station and able to get some sleep that we almost immediately crashed out in our beds. The trainContinue reading “China Part 2: Zhangye & Jiayaguan: 14th – 21st August”

China part 1: Guangzhou, Xingping, Longji rice terraces: 6-13th August

Arrival – Guangzhou We arrived at Guangzhou at 9pm on Tuesday 6th August, slightly delayed and very tired. Our final hour on the flight introduced us to the incredible lightning storms that were a daily feature all week: seconds-long illuminations of the whole sky, and occasional bolts of forked lightning which were too close toContinue reading “China part 1: Guangzhou, Xingping, Longji rice terraces: 6-13th August”

Delhi, leaving India: 3rd – 6th August 2019

We left Agra feeling exhausted from the pressure of people constantly trying to get our attention to sell us things or otherwise extract money from us. We both felt a bit ‘done’ with travel and needed a break for a few days from the pressure of the crowds. It was lucky then, that back inContinue reading “Delhi, leaving India: 3rd – 6th August 2019”

Agra: 1st – 3rd August 2019

We arrived at Agra at 5am having had not enough sleep on the train as it wound through the saturated, monsoon-laden countryside. We were immediately inundated by tuk tuk drivers, but thankfully had a lift pre-arranged to our guest house. We were obviously too early to get into our room, but the owner let usContinue reading “Agra: 1st – 3rd August 2019”

Mumbai: 24th – 31st July 2019

Our train arrived into Mumbai/Bombay* in early afternoon, and we went straight to a cheap local cafe that has been around for over 100 years. After a lovely lunch of thali and vada, we ordered an Uber. We waited out in the torrential monsoon rain; water cascading off awnings and the streets flooding, but businessesContinue reading “Mumbai: 24th – 31st July 2019”

Hyderabad, Telangana: 20th – 23rd July 2019

For our next stop, Maeve had arranged to visit an ex-colleague from One to One Midwives who is working in a hospital out here. Midwifery doesn’t really exist in India at the moment, but an enterprising (and by all accounts, inspirational) obstetrician – Evita Fernandez – is single-handedly trying to change that. Since 2011, sheContinue reading “Hyderabad, Telangana: 20th – 23rd July 2019”